Special Dispatch. MFW SS26 and a snippet from London
I had a quick stop by the LFW and then went on to Milan full of debuts and excitement
Please excuse my slow pace lately — I’ve been absolutely swamped with work and, as a result, am now bedridden with a nasty cold right in the middle of fashion weeks. I managed to weather Milan, retreating on a packed Ryanair flight home for a quick break, nursing what was then just a nagging throat pain. That little twinge has now blossomed into a full-blown, incapacitating cold. I had hoped to manifest it holding off until just after PFW and my last shoot, but the body wants what it wants. So here I am, writing from bed, dressed in my gown (all day).
I have missed LFW for the first time in probably 10 years (apart from the Covid times), and not because it is sadly not in its best state (although this season was definitely much more upbeat thanks to the new head of BFC, who seems to have managed to breathe some fresh air in such a short period of time). The reason is that I was in Sardinia all of the previous week shooting with Malina (watch out for my video performance debut pretending to be not a stressed stylist, but a cheerful one, for the SS26 launch). It was intense, but also fun, and sadly I managed exactly 0 swims, but I definitely want to come back to that magical place — and if you ever think of going, check out Villa Jonson. It is a dream.
Anyway, I had to go back to be on responsible parent/soccer mom duty for the weekend, so I only managed to catch one day in London. I went to see the Nanushka SS26 show (their first time in London, I believe) — which was fun and easy, exactly what the brand has become known for. It was a lesson in print clashing, and I took a scarf from the goody bag as a small bit of inspo for that. While we’re waiting for summer to play around with prints, I checked out their current offering and found a really cool autumn-appropriate dress, a great jacket, and a shirt with laser-cut scales reminiscent of a Margiela collection from a few years ago.
In the evening I popped in for a glass of wine at the Heaven Mayhem event and was really impressed by their offering of vintage-inspired jewellery, chic cocktail watches, and jewellery boxes. I loved these earrings and also this bag from the Freya collaboration with a cool charm — very Elsa Peretti.
Day 1.
After another two-day shoot and a quick stop at home to repack, off I went to Milan (aka my favourite city). Following my red-eyed flight and a quick change in a hotel bathroom (ugh), I went to the Jil Sander re-see, where Simone Belotti, formerly of Bally, cleaned the palette of the Lucy and Luke Meier era of embellishments and layering and offered a pure minimalist collection very much in the vein of its founder and her successor, Raf Simons’ aesthetics. This is why I love re-sees — a lot of the time you don’t appreciate the clothing as much as when you see it live and up close. Since I wasn’t at the show, the pictures looked quite flat to me. But once I saw the complexity of materials and construction up close, I really appreciated his talent and vision. I love how it’s not just minimalist, but also a bit subversive — an odd shape here and there, a cheeky slash on a skirt opening up a peek of a thigh in movement, a coat whose back seems as if it has been pulled back, giving the body a strange shape (I have my eye firmly on that coat). It is exactly the opposite of what happened to me with the new Calvin Klein collection — in pictures, the clothes looked so good, with the casting and lighting giving them a feeling of luxury and sophistication. But when I saw them in real life, they were actually much too simple. I will definitely hold off for Jil’s summer delivery.
Next up was the main event of the day — the Prada SS26 show. As you might well know, I love Prada. Mainly, I think I love it for never knowing what to expect. When I’m lucky enough to get a ticket (which is not every season, sadly), I walk into the Torre building where the show is traditionally held and look around the space, trying to guess if there are any cues Miuccia and Raf are giving us in the way the set is designed. Even then, I still don’t know what to expect. This time, the set was ultra-minimalist — bar the shiny orange lacquered floor, there was hardly anything else. You’d think the collection would be minimalist, but it wasn’t. The colour combinations were absolutely exquisite (I remember reading that Miuccia Prada has a book on her work desk with colour combinations of Japanese kimonos — it must be very good, maybe I should get one). I’m not a colour person, but looking at this collection I thought: I want to mix beige, burgundy, blue, black and grey — or pink, brown, yellow and green — or maybe even beige, purple, black and blue? I will probably still stick with black, but what inspiration!
Following that was a Taller Marmo presentation, which was actually a ball. Well, it was all mannequins, but what a stunning setting. Twelve hours to complete, countless dresses, hand-written place cards (Mia Farrow, Frank Sinatra among guests) — it was a sort of reincarnation of a Capote ball, but not limited to black and white. Anyway, there’s no other brand who understands the concept of a party better than these guys. And they’re just the nicest people too — a real rarity in the fashion industry, if I may say.
Final stop of the day was a show by Francesco Murano — a rising star of Italian fashion, beloved by celebrities for his red carpet looks thanks to his sensual draping and sexy-but-not-vulgar aesthetic. He was highlighted by Katie Grand as one of the up-and-coming designers in the AW25 issue of System Collections, and he definitely has a bright future.
After the show I was meant to meet my friend for dinner at one of her favourite authentic Italian places (no bougie fluff) - Rosy e Gabriele which turned out to be right next door to the venue. A very broad menu but best service and food was good too!
Last stop of the day was the Prada after-party back at the Fondazione. I was so, so tired, but this is one not to miss. Best people-watching — bumped into a bunch of photographers I’ve worked with, former colleagues, Anastasia Novaya and Scott Schuman. Didn’t see everyone I wanted to since the venue is huge and dark, but hey — the music was great. Jamie XX kept me going until 1 a.m., by which point I’d been awake for close to 20 hours and was about to turn into a pumpkin.
Look
Day 2.
Friday started with the Sportmax show. As much as I’m not really into Max Mara, I do love their more affordable division. It feels cooler, younger, and the show delivered yet again. Minimalism with a twist — just as I like it. Sheer details, long gloves, abstract floral prints, great bags… overall, a really solid mix of interesting and wearable fashion.
Next I popped into the Jimmy Choo presentation, the garden of which was shared with my favourite Palazzo Castiglioni where the flamingoes live.
The flamingoes were fenced off, but I still went round to pay them a visit (a tradition). As for JC next summer — expect lots of lace and pastels, if that’s your thing.
Right next door was the Tod’s show, and I have to say — ever since they brought Brian Molloy on, I make a point of going just to get inspired. His styling is so sharp, so precise, and very influential right now. The collection itself was beautiful: plenty of leather (the heart of the brand’s DNA), clever details like linen linings peeking out from under skirts and tops, smart summer layering, and a dress I immediately put on my wishlist. Tod’s feels like the perfect brand for someone who finds Bottega either too complicated or too expensive — here you still get that incredible craftsmanship, but in a far more approachable way. Good people watching too - Naomi Watts looks sooo good!
I then popped into Antonia (one of Marta Oldrini’s go-to places). Not my first time, of course, but I’m always amazed by the selection and curation. I checked out the new Calvin Klein collection — the bottle-shaped bag is super cool (though completely useless). I spotted my beloved Wandler Penelope bags in suede sitting next to Khaite shoes, which felt like a perfect pairing. I also discovered two new brands for me: Di Stravnitser, with a beautiful lineup of minimalist wool and silk pieces, and Darkpark — an Italian label with a more street vibe, though this boucle jacket was so good. (For my American readers: Darkpark is stocked on Moda Operandi, and they carry a similar style.)
From there I headed to lunch at Il Salumaio — sadly no Anna Wintour and Miuccia Prada sightings this time, but the pasta was divine as always.
Next on the agenda was a Prada re-see, and I was dying to see the collection up close. As often happens, upon closer inspection I realised I won’t wear most of it (thank god — saving money), but the shoes are wearable, and I’ll definitely snap up the black pair with embellishments. I also want the satin opera gloves — they’re sewn with the seams outwards, a technique usually reserved for utilitarian garments, which removes all the glamour associated with satin gloves — so very Prada. And the lace version of that strange skirt with suspenders? I’ll wear it over black trousers and a black shirt for a barely-there layer of unexpectedness (again, very Prada). As for the rompers, I’ll give them a miss — still not on Ozempic…
Lastly, I went out to dinner at Sogni — a relatively new restaurant with seafood dishes and a stunning setting (high ceilings always win me over). The food looked gorgeous, but sadly I couldn’t eat a morsel as I was still digesting my lunch (maybe I’ll give the rompers a go after all…).
Looks
Day 3.
I started my day with an early lunch at Voce Aimo e Nadia at Museo delle Gallerie d’Italia — it looks a bit like a canteen, but the food is really, really good, and it’s super centrally located.
Then I walked to the Dolce & Gabbana show — here’s the thing: I’m obviously not a customer of the brand, but I just love their shows! It feels like I’m in the ’90s because it’s always set at the same location, Metropole Teatro, where the catwalk is raised in the middle of the room and everyone sits on either side on ascending benches (which are so oddly numbered that when you go in the first time, there’s no way you’re finding your seat). Every time I go, there’s some kind of spectacle — one time it was Kim Kardashian hobbling around in her tight dress, delaying the show by an hour; another time, Madonna appeared at her seat as the show began with a parade of models styled as Madonna from the Blonde Ambition era. This time we were kept waiting about 40 minutes until finally Miranda Priestly, Nigel, and an assistant (played by Simone Ashley) proceeded to their seats right opposite Anna Wintour (who gave them a tiny smile). So good every time! I don’t remember the clothes though…
After that, it was time to head to the Bottega Veneta show — another personal highlight and a highly anticipated debut. Louise Trotter, formerly of Carven, Lacoste, and Joseph, has had my heart for a while now. I remember coveting her Lacoste pieces (although I’m not a sporty type), and then, after a brief hiatus, she returned to helm Carven, a French brand I used to love in 2013–2015 when Guillaume Henry was the designer, reinvigorating it with energy and chicness to wide critical acclaim. Bottega is her first properly big gig, and yet again she smashed it. The craftsmanship of the renowned Italian brand — signature to Matthieu Blazy’s collections — found new interpretations in Trotter’s offerings: intrecciato leather mastered into scarves and dresses, bags that feel fresh and modern again. But the true highlights were the moving, long-haired tops and skirts made of recycled glass — simply mesmerizing. The only things was it felt a little too heavy - a lot of layering under the very heavy oversized coats - not an easy piece to pull off but I hope they will commercialise it. Some colour combinations are also worth taking a note of - like khaki + green + pink + grey +white.
Look
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P.S. I’ve been updating my shopping picks over on my ShopMy account, so if you’re on the hunt for something—a dress for an event, a great shirt for the office, or the perfect pair of flats—have a browse.
Day 4.
My last day in Milan had just one thing on the agenda — the Bottega Veneta re-see. While many of the pieces will no doubt come with astronomical price tags, I was pleasantly surprised by the substantial offering of good everyday staples: tailoring, shirts, sweaters that don’t feel like a commercial filler (the way mid-season collections sometimes do), but rather a smart, thought-through part of the collection. It felt designed by a working woman for women who want to be comfortable in their clothes — something I sometimes struggled with in Matthieu Blazy’s approach.
Scroll on to see my SS26 wishlist and ten good things to buy now from other brands…
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