It's Style No Substance and Welcome!
After much back-and-forth on relaunching my long dormant newsletter I am here and learning my way through Substack. I hope to stay consistent and share my finds with you on a weekly basis. Let's go!
I have been meaning to do this for a while but I couldn’t figure out the right approach to continuing on with the newsletter. I think the problem is I don’t want it to be purely about shopping as it’s kind of boring no? I mean I’m sure most of you know that Uniqlo does best cashmere jumpers and Toteme twisted seam jeans are the most flattering? What’s the point in sharing pieces by The Row when they’re sold out before they launch on their website? Don’t get me wrong, I love The Row of course and the Gala trousers (here are few options on resale) are the most flattering trousers in my wardrobe - somehow they make your legs look slimmer and longer but they really dig into the waistline so I prefer wearing them with something long like a Miu Miu shirt in the best shade of blue (here’s an alternative in similar shape but on this one the colour is more like the original, another option is this Bottega shirt from Yoox). Anyway, I thought it would be interesting to talk a bit more about styling and fashion in general (but I promise to share my latest finds with you too!).
That brings me to the first part of the news - you might have noticed the name change - it’s Style No Substance. I love the name so much and I’ve been writing a Telegram channel under this name for the past few years so it made sense to consolidate my editorial empire hehe (it’s only in Russian though I’m afraid but if you speak it - please welcome). I have to admit I did not come up with this name. Back when I was just starting styling, one of my first editorial commissions was for a graduate project, a magazine called No Substance founded by Becca Deakins. I asked her about the name and she told me someone once said to her “You’re all style and no substance”. I have been fascinated by this phrase ever since as I find it so profoundly interesting that people often think that if you are interested in fashion and clothes it makes you dumb or superficial. I use it ironically of course as it’s not true right? ;) Becca if you ever read this I hope you won’t mind my appropriation.
The second part is I decided to keep the subscription free for now but if you are happy to support with €€€ I will be posting an occasional special edition for paid subscriptions. I will also open up some time slots for private clients - if you would like to get a personalised selection based on a particular event or budget you can send your request via link below
Now on to shopping…
10 GOOD THINGS
I love the new shape for Wandler called after stylist Kate Foley who collaborated with the brand’s founder Elza on creating it. I love this mini one for the colour and the metal studs but I also had the medium one in black (until my mom snatched it away) and it is so comfortable for day to day use I’m thinking of getting other colours (like this brown)…
I received these jeans as a present from Maria’s PRs in NYC and that is how I found out about the brand and also found out about Maria who is Irish (and I love meeting an Irish as I am hoping to become one soon). I was very happy to catch up with her in Paris and I say I’m happy because I love to see an independent woman-led brand thriving (and actually 7 out of 10 good things here are by female designers yay!) and Maria has just been picked up by Net-a-Porter. Back to jeans - they feel great on thanks to the softest fabric and the shape is amazing making you look slim which is not often the case for me with wide jeans. Especially if they’re also white (that was the case with the Phoebe Philo drop jeans which looked so bad on me).
P.S. As I was writing this newsletter, Lauren Sherman in her Tuesday podcast The Fashion People said she could see Maria McManus as a successor designer at Proenza Schouler… So watch this space!
I’m not big into sportswear but I love this elevated version of a slightly retro tracksuit jacket - the paneling on the sleeves and the colour make it look chic yet relaxed and unpretentious. I came across the Amsterdam-based brand Caes a while ago and love their designs that are simple but interesting with a slight 90s nostalgia vibe. Alternatively, there is another option of a panelled light bomber from one of my favourite Ukrainian brands Katimo.
Hagelstam is a new shoe brand from Finland that I found out about through Instagram (honestly, what we were doing before? Living an actual life of trial and discovery?). Founded by Sandra Hagelstam (in the middle of pregnancy mind you), herself quite a fashion enthusiast spanning a near 10 years influencer career and stints at Vogue Scandinavia. When I met Sandra a few months ago in London to my question “How does one start a shoe brand?” she answered “I’ve always loved shoes and I know everything about shoes”
That she does and I find the shoes beautiful, elegant and sexy at the same time. I have recently succumbed to the idea that I can’t really wear anything higher than 7cm so my choice is the Ruby pump 55 but if I could I would certainly get the Jet Pump in chocolate.
I loved the playfulness of Bottega Veneta SS25 show - things that look like you just raided your parents’ wardrobe, things that are a bit too big, a bit creased. I love this crinkled cotton coat - it is so uniquely Matthieu Blazy chic. Also lets not forget - this is his last collection for BV and from now on the prices for his creations at Chanel will be on a different scale entirely… Anyway, Zara just launched their Studio collection and this coat could be a nice affordable alternative.
I met By Pariah founder Sophie at a dinner during Paris Fashion Week and she was wearing one of her chains with a few of the pendants. I couldn’t stop staring at them as she was occasionally pulling on chain or caressing the pebbles with her fingers (with a few By Pariah rings on them). They seemed so tactile and pleasant to touch and I mentioned to her how I always had reservations about semi-precious stones due to the art teacher associations that would spring to mind when I think of quartzes and agates. The way Sophie works them may just have cured me from my reservations and this combo pictured above is firmly on my wish list for the fine jewellery acquisitions to come.
The shoe game at Prada SS25 was particularly strong with all the old hits re-editions. But this pair looks so vile I’m obsessed. It looks like you’re cutting through them like a razor or as you stride down the street you’re cutting the air around you to the surprised looks on people’s faces (especially if we’re talking not the fashion capitals - damn I just love that feeling). They also come in black and green but I’m not a fan of green and black is too safe here (but certainly more sensible).
From hating gold back when I was a teenager to strictly not mixing gold and silver in my early twenties I am now fully embracing mixing everything because whatever (and also to be fair it was Phoebe Philo’s SS16 collection for Celine which finally got that idea out of my mind by mixing different metals on the famous white linen dress). Charlotte Chesnais has made mixing the two
a signature move of her design process (and this bracelet is my next purchase for sure). But I also love Panconesi and how their jewellery always feels a bit ethnic but also extremely contemporary. These gold & silver coloured Vortice earrings are a cool statement piece. I also had a pair of their signature Serpent hoops on a shoot and decided to get one for myself. They’re really strong yet light and easy to wear.
Zara is as always on it and this is their interpretation of the SS25 Loewe leather cape (only for the fraction of the price) or even the ubiquitous trapeze-shaped waxed canvas jacket which they released in various materials although don’t seem to have in stock anymore - but here’s a brand new one on resale! The material of Zara cape is not great but it’s such a cool styling piece if you don’t want to splash out.
So the shirt I’m wearing in the opening picture is by Phoebe Philo from the 3rd edit but I had completely overlooked it when scrolling through the website. Then I saw it on the lovely Liza (formerly of the Old Celine in Mount street) who works with clients at the PP showroom in London and who was wearing this fabulous shirt. The shape, the collar and the colour are just so good - I managed to snatch the last one they had in stock but some of the retailers where the brand is stocked now might still have it. Alternatively this one is quite similar in colour and material but not the shape but is also very good.
FAVOURITE READS FROM LAST WEEK
Profile on Rachel Tashjian of Washington Post and Opulent Tips
An interview with Nina Yashar of Nilufar
Ecce Homo on Phoebe Philo vs The Row
BOOKS
The Body Keeps The Score by Besser Van Der Kolk - on how trauma affects the body and the ways to heal
❤️
Welcome back!!